Rome in November is surprisingly summery. At least, it was when I visited a couple of weeks ago for a quick 48 hour break.
It mostly involved walking around in the sunshine, admiring the beautiful ancient architecture and eating pasta. Lots of it.
I can’t eat gluten (I’m not coeliac, I just can’t cope with too much) so I was a little worried before I arrived in Rome that I’d have to skip pasta completely, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover that most restaurants will cook you a plate of gluten free pasta if you ask.
We had the most incredible time (if you want to follow what we did over the two days, check out our brand new YouTube channel for a couple of highlight videos), and highly recommend that if you fancy a quick winter weekend break, you consider Rome in November. It was warm, less touristy than in summer, and still just as incredible.
For a bit of inspiration, including plenty of pasta stops along the way, follow my 48 hour itinerary – we went Sunday to Tuesday, but whatever day of the week you visit on, this will help you see some of the best sights…and eat as much pasta as you possibly can!
Day 1: Evening
6pm. Arrive into Rome and travel to your hotel.
We stayed at 1880 Atypical Rooms, which was a fantastic base for exploring Rome. To get here, catch the Leonardo Express from Fuimincino Airport, which takes just 32 minutes and goes directly to Termini station for €14pp. We bought our tickets from a machine in the airport, which was easy to use.
From Termini station, the hotel is about a 10 minute walk (or super quick cab ride if you don’t fancy doing it on foot).
1880 Atypical Rooms: Via Nazionale 66, 00184
7:30pm. Check in, drop your bags, head out for dinner.
8pm. Dinner at Al Boschetto. We wandered a few streets away from our hotel and stumbled upon this cute, slightly kitsch restaurant that promised a garden inside.
We never found the garden – possibly one of those lost in translation things – but we did enjoy a delicious meal (try the mozarella balls to begin with) including a giant plate of gluten free pasta. Brendan had the lasagne which, judging by the time it took him to finish it, was extremely good.
Al Boschetto: Via del Boschetto, 30, 00184. Open daily.
9:30pm. Back to the hotel.
Day 2: Morning
8am. Wake up, enjoy breakfast at the hotel.
9:30am. Walk to the Colosseum, about 15 minutes away. Keep walking past the actual Colosseum until you reach the Palatine. There will probably be no queue, so buy a ticket to the Colosseum and Palatine/Forum here (€12pp).
You can either use it just for the Colosseum (skipping the massive ticket line) or take some time to stroll through the Palatine and Forum first. I highly recommend the latter.
11:00am. After wandering around Palatine and the Forum, head to the Colosseum and join the short line for people who already have tickets. Your bags will be checked, and then you can walk around the inside the Colosseum and take it all in.
Don’t forget to go up to the second level to get a great view over the whole Colosseum, and to check out the exhibition on what life was like as a spectator back in the Roman Empire!
12:30pm. First pasta of the day! Walk back towards the hotel and stop at Ai Tre Scalini for lunch. This is a popular spot for locals, and it’s near impossible to get in at dinner, but you should be able to get a table for lunch.
I couldn’t see gluten free pasta on the menu, but I was in my element anyway, because there was an aubergine parmigiana that I just had to order. It was divine, and apparently Brendan’s lasagne was good (although a little on the small side).
This restaurant is cute, cosy and perfect for an afternoon prosecco and cheese-laden meal.
Ai Tre Scalini: Via Panisperna, 251, 00184, open daily from 12:30pm
2:30pm. Nap off that lunch in the hotel (or, if you aren’t in a food coma, stroll around the streets of Rome).
Day 2: Evening
4:30pm. Stroll past the Trevi Fountain, marvel at the beautiful Pantheon, soak up the atmosphere in Piazza Navona – just make sure you find yourself in Campo de’ Fiori eventually.
6pm. Stop at Taba Cafè for an aperitif. This cute bar is furnished with mismatched vintage sofas and armchairs overlooking the bustling square. The drinks aren’t particularly cheap (I think we paid €15 for an Aperol Spritz and a prosecco) and the service is shocking, but it’s a lovely place for people watching in the fading evening light of Rome in November.
Taba Cafè: Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, 13/14, 00186. Open daily.
7pm. Dinner at Osteria da Fortunata. This was the one meal where I just gave in and ate the gluten, because there was an old Italian lady hand making pasta in front of me. I mean, resistance was futile.
Although the food is incredibly traditional, using simple ingredients straight from the Campo de’ Fiori market, the interior is modern and the service, although fast-paced, is friendly and attentive. It’s admittedly a little touristy, but there were loads of Italians there too, probably because the pasta is just so delicious.
Osteria da Fortunata: Via del Pellegrino, 11, 00186. Open daily from midday.
9pm. Walk back to the hotel, stopping for a gelato along the way if you still have room!
Day 3: Morning
8am. Wake up, enjoy breakfast at the hotel. Check out and leave your luggage at reception.
9:30am. Walk up Via Nazionale to Repubblica – Teatro Opera Metro station. Buy a single ticket (should be €1.50 each, but make sure you have cash as none of the card machines worked when we visited), which is valid for 100 minutes.
Take the A (orange) line towards Battistini and get off at Ottaviano. Walk to the Vatican Museums (there will be loads of people trying to sell tours who can point you in the right direction).
10:15am. Join the very short line for ticket-holders (having bought them online here in advance), and make your way through the Vatican Museums. There’s a short route for those who just want to see the Sistene Chapel (you go through some other amazing rooms too) or you can spend hours just strolling through the halls of artefacts and art.
Vatican Museums: Viale Vaticano, 00165 Roma. Open 9am – 4pm Mon-Sat, and the last Sunday of the month (some exceptions apply).
11:30am. Head towards St. Mark’s Square to take in St. Peter’s Basilica (and enjoy the fact that you are actually in a brand new country).
12pm. Walk across the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II, a bridge that’ll give you a gorgeous view over the River Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo. Stroll until you reach the Pantheon, and then head down Via dei Pastini.
1pm. Lunch at Pietro al Pantheon. You know how in London, if you try to eat anywhere near a major tourist attraction, there’s a 90% chance your food will taste like rubber? Not so in Rome! Of course, there are exceptions to that, but in general it’s hard to find a bad meal in the Italian capital.
I wasn’t sure Pietro al Pantheon would be any good – it’s just steps away from the bustling Pantheon after all, but it was fabulous. And their gluten free pasta was amazing. Try the fried artichoke as a starter – it’s more like a work of art than a meal!
Pietro al Pantheon: Via dei Pastini, 125, 00186
Day 2: Evening
2:30pm. Walk to the Trevi Fountain, throw a coin in to guarantee your return to Rome, and enjoy some world-class people-watching.
3pm. Head to the Spanish Steps, not because there’s anything to do there as such, but because it’s a pretty area and a lovely walk.
3:30pm. Stroll back to the hotel, grab your luggage and make your way back to the airport the same way you came.
7pm. Fly home, dreaming about pasta the whole way back, and for days (and weeks) to come.
I hope you liked my itinerary for a pasta-focused 48 hours in Rome in November. I know there’s loads more to see and do in Rome than what I’ve covered, so you can customise this itinerary to make it the holiday you really want!
